BBC Microcomputer TELETEXT Project
Viewdata, Prestel, Philips
Philips Model Identification
1976/77 Rank Arena AC6333 – Worlds First Teletext Receiver
PYE 1980s Brochure
Ceefax (Teletext) Turns 50
Philips 1980s KT3 – K30 Range Brochure
Zanussi Television Brochure 1982
Ferguson Videostar Review
She soon put that down
1983 Sanyo Brochure
Wireless World Teletext Decoder
Unitra Brochure
Rediffusion CITAC (MK4A)
Thorn TRUMPS 2
Grundig Brochure 1984
The Obscure and missing Continental
G11 Television 1978 – 1980
Reditune
Hitachi VIP201P C.E.D Player
Thorn 3D01 – VHD VideoDisc Player
Granada Television Brochure, 1970s
Long Gone UK TV Shops
Memories of a Derwent Field Service Engineer
PYE Australia Circa 1971
Radios-TV VRAT
Fabulous Fablon
Thorn TX10 Chassis
Crusty-TV Museum, Analogue TV Network
Philips N1500 Warning!
Rumbelows
Thorn EMI Advertising
Thorn’s Guide to Servicing a VCR
Ferguson 3V24 De-Robed
Want to tell us a story?
Video Circuits V15 – Tripler Tester
Thorn Chassis Guide
Remove Teletext Lines & VCR Problems
Suggestions
Website Refresh
Colour TV Brochures
1970s Lounge Recreation
CrustyTV Vintage Television Museum
Linda Lovelace Experience
Humbars on a Sony KV2702
1972 Ultra 6713
D|E|R Service “The Best”
The one that got away
Technical information
The Line Output Stage
BBC Microcomputer TELETEXT Project
Viewdata, Prestel, Philips
Philips Model Identification
1976/77 Rank Arena AC6333 – Worlds First Teletext Receiver
PYE 1980s Brochure
Ceefax (Teletext) Turns 50
Philips 1980s KT3 – K30 Range Brochure
Zanussi Television Brochure 1982
Ferguson Videostar Review
She soon put that down
1983 Sanyo Brochure
Wireless World Teletext Decoder
Unitra Brochure
Rediffusion CITAC (MK4A)
Thorn TRUMPS 2
Grundig Brochure 1984
The Obscure and missing Continental
G11 Television 1978 – 1980
Reditune
Hitachi VIP201P C.E.D Player
Thorn 3D01 – VHD VideoDisc Player
Granada Television Brochure, 1970s
Long Gone UK TV Shops
Memories of a Derwent Field Service Engineer
PYE Australia Circa 1971
Radios-TV VRAT
Fabulous Fablon
Thorn TX10 Chassis
Crusty-TV Museum, Analogue TV Network
Philips N1500 Warning!
Rumbelows
Thorn EMI Advertising
Thorn’s Guide to Servicing a VCR
Ferguson 3V24 De-Robed
Want to tell us a story?
Video Circuits V15 – Tripler Tester
Thorn Chassis Guide
Remove Teletext Lines & VCR Problems
Suggestions
Website Refresh
Colour TV Brochures
1970s Lounge Recreation
CrustyTV Vintage Television Museum
Linda Lovelace Experience
Humbars on a Sony KV2702
1972 Ultra 6713
D|E|R Service “The Best”
The one that got away
Technical information
The Line Output Stage
Ah, that brings back some memories!
On my "TV wants" list is an RGD 519 - it's not a real RGD, it's Sobell/Regentone (?) era; single standard, two PCBs, shiny polyester cabinet, AW47/90 tube. And it had one of these in it ?
The fireball tuner reminds me of.....
Filmed in "SuperMarionMatron"
.
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.
Meanwhile, back on Earth, the Bush cabinet is gradually improving. I have cleaned up the area of missing veneer and have used mahogany veneer to replace the missing sections. Looks a bit messy, but will certainly come up good and be better than that nasty gash. Needs sanding down a little now.
I don't like cabinet work, but sometimes it has to be done and the results can be quite satisfactory if you spend the time. My Decca DR303 cabinet requires work, but I've been putting it off.
With the Bush, it will be good to get this job out of the way and then some fault-finding can be looked forward to....
Before.....
After.....
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.
Looking good so far Andrew and as you say taking your time is the key to a good finish. Keep up the good work. ?
Marc
BVWS member
RSGB call sign 2E0VTN
Thanks Marc, the worst is over with that dreadful thick lacquer removed from the cabinet. It was faded, milky and looked much worse than the photo's would suggest. The mahogany veneer underneath is not faded and looks very nice, so will be quite presentable when finished. It took several hours for the Nitro-Mors to take effect on that lacquer, tough old stuff it was.
Mind you, when new I should think it looked great, a nice durable and glossy finish. Sadly the years have taken their toll and being in a damp shed may not have helped.
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.
Oh, and my OCD has kicked in with the LOPT overwind....I will simply have to undo it again and use black polythene tape to finish it off. What I might also do is to use Kapton tape first and then the black tape as a final wrap. As it is at the moment, the outer wrap was rather "EHT active" when powered up and should be better insulated. This could be due to me using masking tape under the final wrap, so not the best idea was it !
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.
Posted by: PYE625Mind you, when new I should think it looked great, a nice durable and glossy finish. Sadly the years have taken their toll and being in a damp shed may not have helped.
As I suspect it was a polyester finish, might I suggest you buy some Rustin's 'Plastic Coating' for refinishing? It'll be very close to the original, if not actually what was used - a two-part lacquer. You can put it on with a brush.
Thanks Mike, that's an interesting idea I'll look into ?
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.
I've done many sets with it in the past, both brushed and sprayed. It's hard work cutting it back to get the final gloss finish but it would genuinely look "factory fresh" when done, trust me.
The result of my attempt to join veneer is less than satisfactory, in fact bloody awful. I can't stand bodges, and this stinks. So I have removed all the veneer from that side and will replace it with one complete new piece.
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.
Posted by: PYE625The result of my attempt to join veneer is less than satisfactory, in fact bloody awful. I can't stand bodges, and this stinks. So I have removed all the veneer from that side and will replace it with one complete new piece.
Makes sense.
To make a good join you need a veneer cutter, I bought one a few years ago when I was doing a fair few cabinet repairs. It cuts the two edges at an angle so they seamlessly overlap making a near invisible join (assuming your veneers and patterns match).
CrustyTV Television Shop: Take a virtual tour
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Veneer, that takes me back, we had wood work classes and we did veneer work, that was 60 years ago, couldn’t do it now.
We had no veneer cutters, the woodwork teacher talk us to make the two pieces of veneer overlap and cut through both pieces at the same time with a straight vertical cut. Any slight deviation from the line, it had the be tiny though, both pieces would match up.
Frank
One method I have seen for cutting/joining veneer involved a straight edge and a chisel - although I was advised that it could easily end up in a trip to the local ED.
The roll of veneer arrived this morning so I have carefully cut and applied it to the prepared area on the set. I'm pleased to say that it looks miles better, and after fine sanding and staining, matches the rest of the cabinet pretty exactly. First picture is of the new piece, second the other side of the cabinet. The interior is also veneered, but of course unfinished.
It is certainly an improvement on the hideous repair I attempted before.
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.
However careful there would always been a line showing where it was joined so the full piece makes it look new again.
Frank
I've been looking into the Rustins Plastic Coating as suggested by Mike, but have chickened out of it. I may get some and have a practise sometime, but in the meantime have opted for the trusted Liberon finishing oil for the Bush. It is so simple to apply and sets hard and glossy. I have a feeling I'd make a mess of the Rustin's stuff to be quite honest.
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.
I'm fascinated to see that the inside is also veneered - something I've never come across before, although I do remember the TV135U.
It's almost as if it was made from Contiplas!
A far cry from the days when Ekco used to economise on veneer by covering the sides of their cabinets with brown paint!
When all else fails, read the instructions
Posted by: Terry
A far cry from the days when Ekco used to economise on veneer by covering the sides of their cabinets with brown paint!
Which models were they? I know in the middle late 60’s they cut everything to the bone to save a penny.
Frank
Posted by: TerryI'm fascinated to see that the inside is also veneered - something I've never come across before, although I do remember the TV135U.
It's almost as if it was made from Contiplas!
A far cry from the days when Ekco used to economise on veneer by covering the sides of their cabinets with brown paint!
Traditionally you are meant to veneer both sides of a board to prevent long-term warping - that's why plywood is always an odd number of plies. It was typical to use a cheap veneer like sapele for this job.
I thought Contiplas was the Formica-covered stuff, Contiboard the veneered one...
If you want to see economy in action, try my wartime Bush RG73 radiogram; the sides are hardboard, painted to look like wood...! Murphy also used to paint sides of radios too - the A104 and A122 come to mind.
Now the cabinet is on the home stretch, I removed the LOPT once more and the overwind to shed it of the outer polythene tape and masking tape around the last turn of wire. I used a generous supply of Kapton tape plus a final wrap of plain black PVC tape. Then, I used black wax to secure it all in place near the bobbin. I'm happy with the way it looks now, at last !
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.
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