Of course I meant no aquadag layer on the outside, hence the 1 nF smoothing C.
There is an ion trap magnet though.
Jac
Of course we knew the EF80 as a 6BX6 and its later remote cutoff version as a 6BY7.
I soak my fibreboards with water and press them with weights between towels and leave to dry. Usually good results.The fibreboard cover on the base of my TX275 (underside of the chassis) has a bad woof in it.
Anyone know how the flatten it without damaging it?
Lovely set you have there.
Thanks, I'll try that!
Worked a treat!
We rarely saw this material used for TV backs and covers. Usually Masonite, moulded plastic or pressed steel. Some Thorn models used it.
@irob2345 There is a ‘license’ sign on that cover , is it a UK one or an Australian one? Possibly patent numbers, UK sets had them somewhere in the unit. Interested which company/country it was issued by.
Frank
Definitely a UK one:
Australian patent royalty label looked like this:
Between 1935 and about 1960 it was a water transfer, like this one.
@irob2345 Thanks for also showing the Australian version. Industrial history facinates me, I am sure many television and radio listeners would not think at one time that patent licences needed to be paid on equipment.
Frank
The Australian Radio Technical Service and Patents was an industry-sponsored patent clearing house. Manufacturers purchased the transfers and applied them internally to their products. It was a co-op system that must have saved millions in legal fees and promoted the development of the industry.
@nuvistor Here's a better pic of a newer example.
That is one very long sentence! Breaks all the rules!
@irob2345 Take a deep breath before reading that sentence. Thanks for that, it a very clear photo.
Frank
Well I finally got around to screwing the bottom cover on the Ekco.
And yes, you guessed it, a sure way to make a fault appear is to put the back/covers on!
Horizontal lines, correctable with the front panel control, but then there were wriggles.
A slap on the side brought the lines back and re-adjusting the hold fixed it.
What does that sound like to you?
So top wrap off, pull the 12AU7 / ECC82 and clean the socket, OK?
Not so easy, it's half behind the line transformer and close to the CRT. There is no way you can see the socket when refitting the bottle. But after 20 or 30 attempts and squeezing my phone camera in there to get a pic of the socket I got it back in.
No amount of wiggling, tapping or banging can now induce the fault to re-appear.
While I had the cover off I re-tuned CH1 in the turret from the old 10Ch frequency to the newer 13Ch one. Had to take a turn off the oscillator coil to do this and wind the brass slugs all the way into the other bandpass coils to get an acceptable passband. There is no CH1 on the dial so Ch1 is marked 13! Tricky!
Unusually for a turret tuner these adjustments are accessible through the side of the tuner, but in this TV getting to them involves removing the tuner from the chassis, a process that involves quite a lot of dismantling. So it was a matter of rotating the drum and accessing the Ch1 biscuit from the bottom. Slow process of trial and error!
Good work!
A small mirror does wonders for seeing the orientation of a hidden valve-socket.
Jac
I don't have one of those little mirrors. Hence the phone camera.
Next time one shows up in the centre aisles at Aldi I'll grab it!
