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Long Gone UK TV Shops
Memories of a Derwent Field Service Engineer
PYE Australia Circa 1971
Radios-TV VRAT
Fabulous Fablon
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Crusty-TV Museum, Analogue TV Network
Philips N1500 Warning!
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Thorn’s Guide to Servicing a VCR
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Video Circuits V15 – Tripler Tester
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Colour TV Brochures
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Humbars on a Sony KV2702
1972 Ultra 6713
D|E|R Service “The Best”
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Memories Of The TV Trade
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1971 Beovision 3200
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Granada Television Brochure, 1970s
Long Gone UK TV Shops
Memories of a Derwent Field Service Engineer
PYE Australia Circa 1971
Radios-TV VRAT
Fabulous Fablon
Thorn TX10 Chassis
Crusty-TV Museum, Analogue TV Network
Philips N1500 Warning!
Rumbelows
Thorn EMI Advertising
Thorn’s Guide to Servicing a VCR
Ferguson 3V24 De-Robed
Want to tell us a story?
Video Circuits V15 – Tripler Tester
Thorn Chassis Guide
Remove Teletext Lines & VCR Problems
Ceefax (Teletext)
Suggestions
Website Refresh
Colour TV Brochures
1970s Lounge Recreation
CrustyTV Vintage Television Museum
Linda Lovelace Experience
Humbars on a Sony KV2702
1972 Ultra 6713
D|E|R Service “The Best”
The one that got away
Technical information
The Line Output Stage
The map
Tales of a newly qualified young engineer.
Tales of a Radio Rentals Van Boy
Sanyo SMD
Disastrous Company Rebranding
1969 Philips G22K511
Memories Of The TV Trade
Crazy house
Dirty TV screens
Dual Standard and Single Standard CTV’s
Radios-TV on YouTube
The Winter of 62/63
A domestic audio installation
1979 Ferguson Videostar Deluxe 3V16
Music centre modifications
Unusual record player modification
B&K 467 Adapters
Mishaps In The Trade
1971 Beovision 3200
1971 Bush CTV1120
Posted by: @sidebandAlso beware the vision interference limiter which may be incorrectly set. If this is advanced too far, it can make the whites appear grey and silvery just like a duff tube.
... as I said earlier ...!
Better still, there is a link shown between L22 and the cathode of V6a - just remove it!
When all else fails, read the instructions
I have done a lot more in the way of capacitor changing on the TV. Got the picture back and it is quite good.
There were problems with the height, I had to have it full on, it improved after changing C57 C61 C43.
The picture is still a bit wishy washy, I guess that is the tube, but it is watchable in a darkened room, and it is a bit to the left, but I can live with that.
Thats it I think, its about all I can do, other than boost the tube, and that is probably not worth taking the risk.
Thanks Everyone
Mike
A further slight improvement, I had a go at changing the focus settings and found it was better on pin 9.
There are 2 more wax capacitors to change, C49 & C80, I have run out of spare .1 and .047 caps.
Would it be expected that these capacitors will make much difference to the picture quality?
They can both be seen on this image. download/file.php?id=18967&mode=view
In order to get the most stable picture with the horizontal hold the picture is to the left, if I centre the picture then the edges of vertical lines start to go wonky.
It looks from the test card that the image is slightly stretched out on the left.
I would appreciate some advice on how to get the circle round or to shift it to the right, and maybe the width may need reducing slightly now.
Thanks
Mike
Hi
The left side of the picture is a little stretched, I would appreciate some advice on how to get the circle "round" or to shift it to the right, and maybe the width may need reducing slightly now.
Does this set have a line linearity sleeve under the scan coils?
It consists of a shorted turn made from copper foil and glued onto a paper sleeve which fits around the CRT neck under the scan coils. By moving it backwards and forwards, it is used to set both width and linearity, although predominately the latter. It should have a little plastic 'handle' glued to the end closest to the CRT base but they often become detached, usually because the sleeve stops sliding freely after a time ...
To adjust, slacken the scan coil clamp and pull the sleeve back as far as it will go. Now slide it slowly forward until the linearity is at its optimum, then re-tighten the scan coil clamp. Note that is the sleeve is pushed too far forward, it can cause the scan coils to run at an increased temperature, so don't overdo it!
When all else fails, read the instructions
Thanks for your reply, not sure if you mean the ring around the neck near the end or the other clamp thing up close to the scan coils.
Perhaps you could point for me.
Ah! Neither, (Sorry, there's no data in the library on this set, so I was working in the dark ...)
This set is a bit too old for the linearity sleeve trick!
The ring near the base is, presumably, an ion trap magnet (of a type completely alien to me!) and the 'clamp thing' is the picture shift magnet assembly.
Hopefully you'll find linearity and width controls in the line output stage.
When all else fails, read the instructions
The ring near the base dosent "feel" magnetic with a screwdriver.
Posted by: @terrykcAh! Neither, (Sorry, there's no data in the library on this set, so I was working in the dark ...)
Yes there is, it's been there for about two years as I had one of these sets
KB_PVP20_Trader 1016.67 KB
Kb_qvp20_ser_man 2.21 MB
As you can see, there was a Trader sheet and the KB service manual. The only difference between the PVP and OVP is the vabinet construction. The PVP uses a Card type cabinet, the QVP a glass-fibre cabinet.
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Posted by: @crustytvYes there is, it's been there for about two years as I had one of these sets
KB_PVP20_Trader 1016.67 KB
Kb_qvp20_ser_man 2.21 MB
Oops!
I accidentally clicked on F-J instead of K-O ...! ☹️
I saw several ITT-KB sets but not the PVP20 and so ...
Grovelling apologies, Chris.
However, the two are not the same. The QVP20 uses a different CRT and shows a width sleeve as part of the scan coil assembly whereas the the PVP20 has three width plug selectable settings on the LOPT ...
When all else fails, read the instructions
Posted by: @anonymousThe ring near the base dosent "feel" magnetic with a screwdriver.
Data on the Brimar C17SM doesn't mention an ion trap magnet but the Philips/Mullard data for the equivalent AW43-80 definitely does!
Assuming it is some type of ion trap magnet with an enclosed field, as everything looks ok from the pictures I would suggest you avoid disturbing its position!
When all else fails, read the instructions
I just wondered if there was a simple way to squash the leff side of the screen over to the centre a little. But as it is not too bad I think I will leave it alone now apart from changing the last 2 caps when they arrive.
I just wondered if there was a simple way to squash the leff side of the screen over to the centre a little ...
There is!
I missed this earlier but this set does have a shorted turn linearity sleeve!
As I covered the adjustment of this in a previous post, I wont repeat myself ...
I found this in a much earlier post:
... In order to get the most stable picture with the horizontal hold the picture is to the left, if I centre the picture then the edges of vertical lines start to go wonky ...
Is this still happening, because it shouldn't!
Also note that the horizontal hold control should never be used to centre the picture!
When all else fails, read the instructions
Thanks for the information, so the linearity coils are actually fixed to the sleeve the scan coils are mounted to.
I dont fancy touching that as it all looks bolted up, and I fear making a quite minor imperfection worse.
Yes the picture is still to the left slightly, in order to get the best lock on the horizontal hold.
I was wondering about giving the ring around the neck a gentle tap, but it looks like it may be a ferrite material and I am worried about that cracking and making matters worse.
... so the linearity coils are actually fixed to the sleeve the scan coils are mounted to ...
No, although it sometimes seems that way!
The scan coils are completely separate from the linearity sleeve, which consists of copper foil coils on a sheet of thick paper.
To adjust them, first release the scan coil clamp. You should be able to see the sleeve protruding from the rear of the coils, even if the plastic 'handle' is missing. You may need to release the picture shift assembly to get to it easily.
Over time, the sleeve may have got loosely bonded to the scan coils or the tube - or both! Hold the sleeve whilst moving the scan coils slightly to ensure they are free then move the sleeve backwards towards the tube base. If you need to twist the sleeve to free it from the CRT neck, make sure it is rotated back to the original position. The 'handle' has a projection which engages with a slot in the scan coil housing to make this easy but you can use a pen to make a datum mark on the sleeve before moving it if the 'handle' is detached.
Ensure the scan coils are fully forward, then gradually push the sleeve forward under the coils whilst observing the linearity - ignore width changes during this process. Tighten everything up again, re-centre the picture, then adjust height and width - if necessary - for optimum.
Don't interfere with that ring near the base!
When all else fails, read the instructions
If it helps this is what the lin sleeve looks like.
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Thanks, Chris! I was thinking that I might attempt to draw one but those pictures are much better than I could ever dream of!
The only thing that isn't clear from the pictures is the location (anti-rotation) lug which should follow the gap between start and finish of the rolled up sleeve ...
When all else fails, read the instructions
.
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I have had a go at the "non destructive tube rejuvenation" with this KB set, with some good results..
see
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