Well I've done it again and bought the Set mentioned from eBay ? and apart from the fact the mains lead has disappeared and been replaced with some moulded crap from a DVD player it doesn't look too bad inside. but when switched on it seems to trip for 5 to 10 seconds and then silence. i'm hoping its not the lopt as I can imagine i'd have more luck finding hens teeth than one of them. any ideas are most welcome when everyone's finished laughing. oh and its the later plastic frame chassis job...
Cheers
Neil.
Lots of TX10 info in the Blog Colour service Hints section. Perhaps relevant, the five possible trips causes near the bottom of the list might be worth investigating. ?
To save time, here's the direct link https://www.radios-tv.co.uk/vintage-electronics-blog-forum/tx10-stock-faults/
Hi Neil, you can isolate the line stage by pulling the scan coil plug next to the LOPT, the link on the plug will remove power from the line stage. Do not remove the plug on the scan coil unit itself though but dry joints on the socket cropped up now and again causing arcing. With great care there is just enough copper wire length to remove the PCB form it's clips to get access to the soldered joints on the rear
If the LOPT is faulty then Ed Dinning may be able to assist as looks it's a very simple affair, must be the smallest LOPT ever made?
it's a very simple affair, must be the smallest LOPT ever made?
Not wrong there John and in case folk have not ever seen one before.
Sorry its not available as its my only stock.
The scan coil plug is no where near the lopt on this chassis as its different to the earlier ones.
Cheers
Neil.
Never saw a TX10 loptx fail. Nor the EHT transformer. Of course things are now 30 years older than the time I saw one!
I have had quite a few TX 10 lopts fail, never had an EHT transformer fail ever!
A diode beside the lopt could read ok (I will look up the reference) could intermittently cause a 'crinkly picture' maybe after about 10 mins of switching on, this if left on in that condition could cause either and/or lopt failure as well as line output transistor failure, both on the two metal chassis version as well as the later plastic chassis version. Bu208 for the metal versions and BU508A for the plastic later version. At least three different diodes types were used across the three chassis types, only one type was used on the plastic later version.
The diode in question always read ok on multimeter checks.
D831 is I think the reference to above.
Chris the edit time still seems far too short ?
Mod Note: Hi Baz, Its been 10 mins for the past 5 years, however in the spirit of listening its now been increased to 15mins. ?
