God evening.
For a while ago i got a nice looking Beovision 4402 from around 1978 (the date is stamped in the schematic inside the TV, its from a abandonned house and havent be connected to power for the last 15 years, after a couple of days in my livingroom in dry conditions i turn the power on at 180volt and over a time i get more and more voltage so it ends up at 230 volt, the picture was the first hour much green but afterthen it turns fully normal, it have a bad soldering at the HV board because it have some pillow distortion.
That part can i fix without any problem, but i have to ultrasonic remotecontrols, and booth of them are actually working, but the TV dosn´t respons correctly when i push the bottoms, if i push the less bright buttom the TV turns over to program 1, same fault if i push the less saturation, and "power of" bottom on both remots can´t turn the TV off, i think maybe there is som faults at the remotereceiver board, but where, does anyone have a fault like this before with a beovision 4402?
Nobody knows this fault?
Hi Alex,
You only posted the fault less than 24-hours ago, you need to give folk a little more time to respond. We're not a huge forum, just a little one with a small membership. Although we have 449 members, only about 20-30 are active (actually login and post). As a result, there are not enough people around to provide rapid replies.
If you urgently need a reply, and looking for a quicker or better informed response, I can recommend the B&O forum. They cover vintage B&O and modern.
https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/28.aspx
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Are you sure they are the correct controllers? One thing you can try is to check any electrolytics decoupling the Remote receiver panel. Noise on the supply rail can wreak havok!
@sideband i know one of them are the correct controllers, but i think there are some bad electrolytic capacitors in the receiver unit and on the remote memory board because it filled up with frako caps, the hole TV is going to be recapped soon as possible 🙂
Sincerely
Alex
Ah alright, if you need anything from the service manual let me know and I'll see if I can help
On another note, what batteries are you using in the remotes? I've been looking for one for mine but it seems to be a weird battery
'70
A Varta 15V battery was the original part supplied by B&O. They are still just about available e.g. https://www.watchbattery.co.uk/shop/products/BAEX-PX74.shtml
and lasted a long time for the average user typically greater than 5 years. I have no idea if modern replacements are as long lasting.
With these remotes it is always worth checking the battery current and used to check any that came in for repair. Normally with no buttons pressed the current is 0mA. Surprisingly about 10% had some current drain caused by the customer spilling liquid(s) on the handset.
Rich
This remote memory board can by a pain to diagnose. From a dealers perspective there were no stock issues, every fault was different!. Suggested first step would be to accurately check carrier and modulation frequencies generated from the remote control.
Next, look at the decoder outputs at 17TR3 to 17TR6 and 17TR7 to 17TR10 collectors to ensure only associated frequencies activate designated output.
I remember having a very bizarre and amusing fault where the workshop phone ring tone would cause the channels to change rapidly, brightness and colour up and down then eventually switching to standby!
Rich
Ah thank you, that looks great, I'll order one for my remote, would be nice to get to use them again. Interestingly enough my remote was modified to be powered from a wall supply via a barrel plug, I think I should be able to fit a battery into place with it
Thanks for that link!
'70
I had a closer look at the previous link and Watchbattery are out of stock.
Another possible source might be https://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_a220.htm?a220,various,B154 where Exell A220 could possibly be used.
Seeing this thread reminded me to check the 4402 remote today. A Duracell MN154 had been fitted some 15 years+ ago but does not have a use-by date! Terminal voltage on load is still hanging in there at 14.5V and.... has not leaked (yet !)
Rich
