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Grundig Super Color 2210

 
Mikey66
(@mikey66)
Active V-Ratter Registered

I got this very nice Grundig 2210 from Neil29 a couple of weeks ago. I had a quick poke around when I got home, replacing the missing bridge rectifier and 4A fuse. Eager as ever to see what I could get on screen I powered her up, a plume of smoke and a sizzling noise got me reaching for the off switch, not before one of the big 11 watt resistors gave up though.
Unplugging and swinging the chassis open it didn't take long to realise that the multiple smoothing cap had given up the ghost. I gave up then and went on my hols for a week.
On my return I replaced the smoothing block with individual caps, fitted a new 10 ohm resistor, 4A fuse and switched on. No smoke or fireworks but not much else. Out with the circuit diagram and I discovered what I thought was a choke was actually a transformer - supplying 14V for the TBA920 line oscillator and 6.3V for the tube heaters. The fuse in the 14V supply checked out ok but the holder was loose, retensioning the holder cured that. Time to switch on again.

A snowy, green, out of focus raster was my reward. Time to try and get a picture, I hooked up my Freeview box, tuned in and hey presto! A green, out of focus picture and sound. I had noticed the CRT base panel was loose, so I gave it a tap and the green came and went, after retensioning the connectors I had a good picture. In fact the tube looks to be in rude health!

Unfortunately this was short lived as the mains filter cap gave up, one replacement cap later and it’s looking good. I need to dig my colour bar generator out to tickle up the convergence and grey scale but it’s looking good.

I now need to work out how to get the original smoothing block apart to restuff it with new caps.







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Topic starter Posted : 16/09/2011 4:29 pm
neil1974
(@neil1974)
Honorable V-Ratter Registered

Hi Mike. im glad you have got the set going without to much hassle. because as usual with me i assumed that it would need a bucket load of parts replacing. which is why i never attempted to fix it. and despite having a fair amount of bits i never seem to have the right one when i need it. but its nice to see a good picture on it. cheers neil.

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Posted : 16/09/2011 4:40 pm
crustytv
(@crustytv)
Vrat Founder Admin

Excellent work Mike, what year is the set? looks sort of 78 -84 I've no idea though. I've not progressed to solid state or colour doubt I will but it's always nice to follow others exploits and learn from their findings. Look forward to more.

Chris

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Posted : 16/09/2011 4:52 pm
Mikey66
(@mikey66)
Active V-Ratter Registered

Neil, I'm glad it didn't take much to get it going, I was dreading a fault in the thyristor controlled line timebase

Chris, I think it hailed from the 77/78 era, I was a little surprised to see it had PIL tube, I was expecting a A56 140.

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Topic starter Posted : 16/09/2011 4:57 pm
Anonymous
(@anonymous)
Illustrious V-Ratter Deactivated Account

i liked these sets the thyristor controlled line timebase proved to be reliable except for bad joints on the comutating transformer and odd failure of tda530 most of ours were scrapped early 90s with weak tubes.
rob t

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Posted : 16/09/2011 5:39 pm
Tazman1966
(@tazman1966)
Reputable V-Ratter Registered

A nice result. An aunt had one of these in the eighties - bought second hand and I remember it well. I can't imagine there are that many around now.

All the best,

Tas

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Posted : 16/09/2011 10:23 pm