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Sony KV-1320 MKII

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PYE625
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For many years I have always liked these little Sony's and hopefully, this one I have just bought will be a good one. It looks in good condition and the CRT would appear ok too. I just need to drive down to Canterbury to collect it, I will probably take a Friday off work and go then.

This MKII version is of course the all transistor one, I believe the original had an EHT rectifier valve.

Here are the vendor's photo's for the time being....

s l500
s l500a
s l500b
s l1600

To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft.
Andrew.

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Topic starter Posted : 16/09/2018 10:06 pm
TVJON74
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Yes that is correct Andrew, the early version used a 3AT2 for EHT rectifier. I think later versions had the rectifier built in to the ttransformer.

Jon
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Posted : 16/09/2018 10:22 pm
Doz
 Doz
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Mine tells lies about it's chassis being live ...  http://andydoz.blogspot.com/2015/01/sony-kv1320-ub-mki-restoration.html

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Posted : 17/09/2018 11:42 am
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Lloyd
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I like these little Sony's, I have 2 of the 1330's with the odd looking green background for the controls. Both mine have slightly lazy CRT's, normally coming on from cold with a green picture which then settles down once warm. Oh, and neither of them like the output from my Toshiba VCR/DVD machine! they work fine with the DVD part, but the VCR set to one of it's 3 AV inputs give very odd colour problems, normally ending up with people with purple faces... (try saying that after a few drinks!!)

Don't suppose anyone wants the scruffy one for a project?!

Regards,

Lloyd

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Posted : 17/09/2018 12:28 pm
PYE625
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There is a very interesting description over on UKVRR about these Sony's, certainly helpful if you are beginning with a faulty set. Hopefully, mine will still be operational by the time it makes it to the bench though it will certainly need some checking over. I have a feeling certain electrolytics may be in need of replacement.

A particular point I noted was not to adjust the line hold whilst the set is running. I presume if the pot is noisy, then this could disrupt things and possibly cause damage as described.

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?p=907892

To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft.
Andrew.

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Topic starter Posted : 19/09/2018 9:40 pm
Horris
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I have a KV1320 which has proved very reliable.

All I have had to do to it is replace a few electrolytics on the decoder and the HT rectifier.

M0HBV
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Posted : 23/09/2018 8:25 pm
Katie Bush
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Posted by: Lloyd

I like these little Sony's, I have 2 of the 1330's with the odd looking green background for the controls. Both mine have slightly lazy CRT's, normally coming on from cold with a green picture which then settles down once warm. Oh, and neither of them like the output from my Toshiba VCR/DVD machine! they work fine with the DVD part, but the VCR set to one of it's 3 AV inputs give very odd colour problems, normally ending up with people with purple faces... (try saying that after a few drinks!!)

Don't suppose anyone wants the scruffy one for a project?!

Regards,

Lloyd

Though not necessarily,

A lot of Sony TVs seemed to escape from the factory with poorly adjusted G2 pot - I think it's G2 (correct me if I'm wrong, people) and displaying just error you describe. It's possible some component values may have drifted over time, but whatever the exact underlying cause, I have seen a goodly few, and all that is usually needed is a minor adjustment of the pot - certainly seems to work well on late '80's models onward.

With the set turned on and displaying a normal picture, if you advance the pot too far the picture will become brighter and turn a sickly green. Turn the pot the other way and the picture darken, and if turned far enough will suddenly black out. between those two points, there is a short plateau where the picture shows no change - midway along that short section is where you need to set the pot.

A bit crude and unscientific, but usually works wonders - certainly on the '80's onward models, but I've never had any earlier models to play with, so cannot 100% confirm for those.

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Posted : 23/09/2018 9:28 pm
Red_to_Black
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Hi Marion

The G2 was fairly critical on the later Sony sets, this was due to the auto grey scaling feature in the colour decoder chips that became the norm (in all makes) from the 80s onwards, it was nowhere near as critical with the earlier models

"This is my multimeter. There are many others like it, but this one is mine. My multimeter is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. Without me, my multimeter is useless. Without my multimeter, I am useless."

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Posted : 23/09/2018 9:53 pm
Katie Bush
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Hi R2B,

Thanks for the additional info, and I'd guess my suggestion isn't really valid in this case.

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Posted : 23/09/2018 9:58 pm
PYE625
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This Friday I will be driving down to Canterbury to collect it. To be quite honest, I am not looking forward to the drive. There and back should be 5 hours.....eek !

To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft.
Andrew.

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Topic starter Posted : 23/09/2018 10:12 pm
Nuvistor
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Walk in the park for you, have lunch while you are out and about. The drive to my daughters is normally about 4 hours unless there are hold ups, last Christmas coming home was 6 hours.

I think I have been 6 or 7 times this year, losing count, back there in October.

Only thing I don't do these days is drive in city centres, done all that, no interest now.

I do a lot less driving now than I used to do, just be safe Andrew.

Frank

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Posted : 23/09/2018 10:22 pm
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PYE625
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I have been and I have returned and the set is good. Not a bad journey, a few minor hold-ups but pretty good.

A brief power-up reveals that it does indeed work. All the control pots are very noisy and will need attention in due course. But now, it's time for a nice cup of tea !

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To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft.
Andrew.

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Topic starter Posted : 28/09/2018 3:10 pm
Nuvistor
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Didn’t take you long to get that one working. ?

Glad the journey wasn’t too bad for you.

Frank

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Posted : 28/09/2018 3:20 pm
PYE625
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Thanks Frank.... just plug in and tune in lol.

A view inside shows it to be in nice condition and not messed with.....

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To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft.
Andrew.

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Topic starter Posted : 28/09/2018 3:44 pm
Nuvistor
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I don’t think I have seen inside one before, we were not Sony agents and PAL CTV was so new that we wanted to stick with sets that were PAL D, not a work around. That’s why we started to sell Hitachi, the first ones we had were PAL D.

It looks well made as Sony were known for, they just had some, to me, peculiar circuits, not only in the decoder but the line stages as well, not sure about the PSU.

Frank

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Posted : 28/09/2018 4:01 pm
PYE625
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It certainly seems capable of excellent results.....

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To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft.
Andrew.

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Topic starter Posted : 28/09/2018 5:33 pm
Marc
 Marc
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The little Sony looks well Andrew, now put your feet up and take a well eared rest from all the hard exertion of restoring it.  ?

Marc
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Posted : 28/09/2018 10:28 pm
PYE625
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Having looked over the boards more closely today, I spotted only a couple of capacitors that were not seemingly too healthy. One was a 1uf 160v on the PSU board, and another was a 0.47uf 500v on the CRT base board. The 1uf on the PSU had clearly been leaking in the past. Both were reading about double the value. (I used a polyester 0.47uf 630v to replace the electrolytic on the CRT base).

All other capacitors would appear to be visually ok, but without removing the lot for testing (and there are many) it is impossible to say for sure. One thing I can say is that this set has probably not seen a huge amount of use. I was also surprised how little dust and muck had found it's way inside the chassis generally.

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To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft.
Andrew.

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Topic starter Posted : 29/09/2018 8:17 pm
sideband
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Posted by: PYE625

All other capacitors would appear to be visually ok, but without removing the lot for testing (and there are many) it is impossible to say for sure.

What you need is a simple ESR meter for the electrolytics....you can whizz through the whole lot in-circuit in minutes. It will show the ones that need changing and you can mark them as you go (a felt tip is useful...just put a black dot on any below parr). Then just remove the ones you've marked.

I built this one a few years ago. https://www.radios-tv.co.uk/community/general-discussion/homebrew-esr-meter/

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Posted : 30/09/2018 8:19 am
Cathovisor
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Or if the set is apparently working without problems, leave them be and just sit back and watch an episode of Ironside on it or something ...  ?

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Posted : 30/09/2018 8:55 am
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