Long time, No repair & Now for something different but the same
I've not done any significant repairs on the forum for at least a year and nothing CTV repair related for well over 18 months. I thought it was high time I got back into the saddle, this time with a little difference.
My threads on this forum over the many years, have always been over the shoulder, "warts-N-all". A journey rather than a Ta-Da! here's the set all done, though there's nothing wrong in that approach either, each to their own. Anyway, rather than me blathering on in yet another thread or Blog, for a change I decided in this lockdown to bore folk on the Vrat Youtube channel instead.
As I said in the other thread, hopefully as I become less nervous and self-conscious, the dialogue/banter will improve, but it's about the repair not me! The good thing is people can still join in via the videos comments section and some have already.
Hopefully you will find it interesting, perhaps it might even prove useful to newer folk with little or no experience, starting out with their own repairs. The idea is to do what I did in threads but now bring "over the shoulder", to a series of videos. They'll be covering the repair of popular UK Colour Televisions from 1967 to 1977, calling on the TV's that remain in my collection. Again it'll be "warts-N-all".
The videos have generated a little interest thus far and at least some positive input for once. I'm sure that may change as folk follow them and start screaming at their monitor "The fault is there dumb ass! Can't you see it!", but let's see how it goes. If the current series proves to be popular, I will bring all the other chassis' to the channel such as Battersea, Bradford, G8, A823, Baird 700, 718, A823AV, B&O 3200, and of course all the Thorn from 2K thru to TX10 plus many others.
Let me be clear, I'm not neglecting the forum, hopefully it will be bi-directionally and mutually beneficial, in as much as it might help grow the Vrat channel as well as increase the forum membership. Yep I'll be plugging the forum in the videos. Equally, I understand there's a folk on youtube that avoid forums and I can appreciate why that is.
Anyway, for those that might be mildly curious, here's Part 1 & Part 2 of the Thorn 3000 switched mode power supply. Yes I know... Thorn again and I know that makes some of you grind your their teeth, but I like-em and so do others, so there!? So, if you find them mildly entertaining please help the project, if you haven't already subscribe to the channel, comment on the vids and perhaps like if you found it entertaining.
Stay safe everyone and keep yourselves busy guys and our one and only gal (Marion) engineer. ?
I watched your first video the other day and have been looking forward to the next part
I saw it as well. It looks like it came from the same van as the damaged chroma board ? ?
looks like it came from the same van as the damaged chroma board
I think you're right John, I seem to recall getting both in a box from the same source a couple of years ago. No doubt this PSU like the others I've done, will give me some grief, hopefully that'll be what provides the entertainment.
Hi Chris, I have watched your YouTube video and have really enjoyed it. I'll certainly look forward to viewing some more. Thanks.
Great video, it’s just what I needed back when I had just got my HMV 2711 (in 2009!), having someone talk me through the power supply would have been great then! It’s probably about time I fired up the HMV again to see what goes bang, although it hasn’t done so previously 🙂
Thanks for the positive input and encouragement guys, much appreciated ?
I'm currently filming Part 3, a Gordon Ramsey tutorial on how to spatch-cock a 3000 PSU, minus the profanity. Just paused to have a wee and get a cuppa. This one is going to be a lot longer, hope it does not bore. Hopefully after rendering on the PC and uploading, this should be available online sometime late this afternoon.
If I ever happen upon a 3000 etc this will be a great asset. Good work Chris ?
I remember years ago I was given a 3000 or 3500, 26 inch with doors, but my dad said it was too big to keep. The fault with it at the time was you had to wait about 20 minutes after switch on and then it would burst into life.
It's funny how the memory is triggered, because I can still see Joe (a friend of the family long since departed) struggling up our drive carrying the set. He used to buy set's cheaply and when they went wrong, would go and buy another and give me the old one to mess around with. This would all have been prior to 1982.
If only I had had the room to keep them all, but my dad would always take them down the tip. ?
To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft.
Haha! My Dad was exactly the same! He’d always be throwing out my stuff, I lost at least 4 TV’s to his clear outs... he still keeps on at me to get rid of some of my ‘big tellies’, especially the HMV, and he also doesn’t like the Murphy consoles, but at least now instead of trying to get me to chuck them out, he keeps trying to get me to sell them!
Hopefully after rendering on the PC and uploading, this should be available online sometime late this afternoon.
Delay in Part 3 being available, this is by far the longest video I've ever made or uploaded for my Youtube channel.
It takes a flaming age (nearly 4hours) to render a 1hr 7min video in my editing suite software, it produced a 1080p 7GB video file. It then took a further 30mins to upload this to Youtube. When the upload had finished all that was available via the channel was a standard 360p video, confused was I. The PC is about 5 years old, intel i5, 16GB RAM, Nvidia 6GB 1070, so although not great it's not a slouch either. I'm on a Fibre link to the internet.
After spending all that time encoding an 1920x1080 HD quality video, I panicked and removed it, thinking I must have screwed it up. I was about to resort to re-encoding but thought best to check if there was anything about this online, there was.
The check showed this is normal! It would seem Youtube make an SD copy available pretty much straight away on your channel, it then background processes the HD copy, only making that available a few mins to a few hours later. I admit I'm a newb to all this video producing and youtubing, I'd not been aware of this fact before now as the longest video I've done to date was about 20 mins, both SD & HD for those appeared pretty much at the same time.
So, I've just uploaded the 1Hr 7min again, you may find only the SD version, give it time if you prefer to watch the HD which will be better when I do close-ups of the PCB and components.
I note part 3 has already been disliked, If it was disliked for an error I made or something I said was misleading or a problem with the content in general, please say what. I can only improve or correct myself if folk say what was wrong, or they disliked. Perhaps folk find such long videos painful, again please say and I'll stick to short 15mins videos. Believe me it will make my life easier too, but it won't contain as much info or demonstrations.
Edit: HD content for part 3, now available
I watched the Thorn 3000 psu videos on youtube and it was them that spurred me on to join this forum. I hope I can make some helpful contributions in the future. I left a comment under the second video about not needing to unsolder the dropper only because I don't remember ever having to do it when I used to work on them many years ago. Anyway I went and lifted the top board on one today and took a picture to show that it could be done. I must add that I admire the work and time put in to make and upload such videos.
@jcdaze Hi and welcome to the forum ?
Really pleased you took the time to comment on the Youtube video and give a different perspective on lifting the dropper side PCB. As I said in the follow-up video, I'd never considered that way before and It does offer another excellent option for getting in. I never worked in the trade so any tips are always warmly welcome.
Great you decided to join the forum, hope you find many hours of distractions and I look forward to your contributions. Don't forget the blog, link up top "Radios-TV", there you will find all manner of goodies. You'll find brochures for TV's, Radios,VCR's and Hi-Fi etc. There's period trade papers, tech tips and stock faults the list is endless. Just follow the blocks and see where they take you, be warned have a tea, coffee or your favourite tipple as you'll be engrossed in it all if you love vintage electronics.
@crustytv Thank you for welcoming me. I watched the very good Part 3 of the youtube video this morning. I would like to go back to the not very important point of lifting the top board to get to the print side as I think you may think I suggested lifting it from the rear edge, which I didn't mean. I lift it from the dropper or front edge but without the need to unsolder the dropper. Leave it attached and once the 3 nuts are removed and the VT601 base and emitter along with the grey lead on the left are unsoldered simply hold the dropper spring clip to the right of the dropper and tilt the right hand side of the board up whilst at the same time moving it about half inch to the right and it will lift. I'm not criticizing the way you do it but trying to safe you time. I did try and attach a couple of pictures to demonstrate with my post yesterday but can't see where they went. I'll read the FAQ section and see where I went wrong. I have a lot of time on my hands at the moment.
Just watched the videos. Very informative and interesting.
Looking forward to future videos.
Loving these videos.
No idea who the dislike is from but I'd keep the videos in the full length format.
I hadn't added pictures to previous post about not unsoldering dropper. Hope this makes sense.
Thats exactly the same way I used to do them also although the original 1500uf replacement for C607 was also a much larger physical size and needed to be popped from it’s retaining clip.
Looking at the underside reminded me of a fault which cropped up on high mileage sets. The wire connected to point T often became carbonised due the heat and arcing occurred to the track underneath which went to point R. This produced an extremely loud and spectacular firework display, thankfully no other damage was caused.