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Radio Bush RG 34

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jonwarby
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1631355158291

Thanks again.  There it is.  I will get this and and the caps for c33 and c34 ordered as well as power film PP caps rated for 1000v

Posted by: @boater-sam

Stick to testing the tubular wax caps and the electrolytics.

understood, thank you.

 
Posted : 11/09/2021 10:19 am
Nuvistor
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Posted by: @jonwarby

I had a look for the 50uf+50uf cap I wasn't able to find one that made sense with the pins.  I'll have to remove the one that's on there and see how the earth is wired.

 

 

 

The negative connection is via the can so the fixing clamp around the capacitor is the negative connection. Notice at the top of the capacitor is a solder tag for use when a chassis clamp is not suitable.

The ones available will have 3 tags with one that will require connection to the chassis, a solder tag under the retaining screws will be fine. Just be sure to connect the three tags correctly.

 

Frank

 
Posted : 11/09/2021 11:24 am
jonwarby
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Posted by: @nuvistor

The negative connection is via the can so the fixing clamp around the capacitor is the negative connection. Notice at the top of the capacitor is a solder tag for use when a chassis clamp is not suitable.

The ones available will have 3 tags with one that will require connection to the chassis, a solder tag under the retaining screws will be fine. Just be sure to connect the three tags correctly.

ok that makes sense.  Rather than have an ugly new capacitor sticking out of the top.  I think I could get 2x400v 47uf caps stacked one above the over inside the original capacitor casing and wired to the original cap connectors to keep it looking a bit more authentic.  Is that a done thing?

or leave the original cap on top but not connected and mount two new caps underneath

 

 
Posted : 11/09/2021 1:13 pm
crustytv
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It's entirely up to you, there's no rule book. You will find some folk re-stuff the old, some remove the old leaving the new visible, and some leave the old disconnected, with the new hidden out of sight.

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Posted : 11/09/2021 1:30 pm
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Nuvistor
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I agree with Chris, all are valid, do what you suits you best. If you do stuff the original, it’s worthwhile leaving a note with the set then it won’t be changed again in future by the next owner.

 

Frank

 
Posted : 11/09/2021 6:33 pm
jonwarby
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Thanks for the advice.  I will order two new caps and see if I can find a good solution that still leaves the outside looking original.  Will add a note of everything done, even it's just for my failing memory.

 

 
Posted : 11/09/2021 7:21 pm
Cathovisor
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Posted by: @jonwarby

Thanks for the advice.  I will order two new caps and see if I can find a good solution that still leaves the outside looking original.  Will add a note of everything done, even it's just for my failing memory.

 

You could of course just buy a new dual-section cap:

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/fandt-lfaz-dual-section-radial-electrolytic-capacitors.html

 

 
Posted : 12/09/2021 8:30 am
Nuvistor, PYE625, Nuvistor and 3 people reacted
PYE625
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Without plugging ebay, it has to be said that a good choice of suitable capacitors may be often found there too. Even good used ones sometimes seen. Worth a search, eg simply just "50+50uf".

To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.

 
Posted : 12/09/2021 8:35 am
Boater Sam
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Thinking about the quality of replacement parts, would the modern film capacitors from a Chinese source that are used universally today really be any worse than the original cheap TCC and Hunts wax leakers that the makers used 70 years ago?

These things were made down to a price even then. They used cheap parts that the armed forces would not use. The likes of Sprague were rarely seen in domestic gear until the surplus market got going.

Its a cheap radiogram, why spend a fortune on first line parts when the cheapest you can find will most likely last until you no longer care?

Boater Sam

 
Posted : 12/09/2021 8:44 am
Cathovisor
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Posted by: @boater-sam

Thinking about the quality of replacement parts, would the modern film capacitors from a Chinese source that are used universally today really be any worse than the original cheap TCC and Hunts wax leakers that the makers used 70 years ago?

Not everybody has such low standards.

I certainly won't countenance cheap parts either professionally or in my hobby.

 
Posted : 12/09/2021 9:15 am
Nuvistor
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@cathovisor 

A new capacitor like those you have linked to would be my choice but has Chris said it’s up to the Jon, all are valid solutions.

I don’t mind seeing new up to date components, others like to see originality.

Frank

 
Posted : 12/09/2021 10:09 am
Boater Sam
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Posted by: @cathovisor

I certainly won't countenance cheap parts either professionally or in my hobby.

Where are the capacitors you use made Mike?  Everything I pick up these days is Chinese.

Boater Sam

 
Posted : 12/09/2021 4:35 pm
Boater Sam
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I seem to have touched a nerve there. I don't know why Mike assumes that I have "such low standards", I find it quite insulting.

 

Having a rough day maybe?

Boater Sam

 
Posted : 12/09/2021 4:38 pm
crustytv
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I'm sure Mike didn't mean for it to come across like that Sam. This is all too often the trouble with internet based interaction, when the human element of voice and facial expression is far removed. I know I've fallen foul of that a few times, and when reading back my post, especially when written in haste.

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Posted : 12/09/2021 4:49 pm
Cathovisor
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@boater-sam 

My apologies, Sam. Me having a bad day? Try a really bad six months.

As for the caps - Portugal, Germany and some even from the UK (made by LCR, who are in Wales). Unlikely to be buying any more as I have enough for what I need - but I am currently giving some extremely serious thought to giving up the hobby and disposing of the entire collection, save for a few sets which I'll retain for sentimental reasons.

 
Posted : 12/09/2021 6:58 pm
jonwarby
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Caps started to arrive today so I can make a start 🙂  They are none polarized as well so one less thing to worry about.

I also got a replacement valve that was new old stock as there were soot marks around one of them

Will update again once they have been replaced.

1631621998730
 
Posted : 14/09/2021 12:22 pm
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PYE625
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Posted by: @jonwarby

 

I also got a replacement valve that was new old stock as there were soot marks around one of them

Marks or stains inside the glass can be quite normal and do not mean the valve is worn out, but it is useful to have spare one's though in any case. On the outside of the glass it is nothing to be concerned about, other than a burnt component for example. If the top of the valve is white, it means the valve is useless as air is inside. Usually, a silvery black top indicates the valve is at least intact and not cracked.

Some valves will run quite hot and again, it is quite normal to see external dark marks in the immediate chassis area. The audio output valve in particular.

 

To understand the black art of electronics is to understand witchcraft. Andrew.

 
Posted : 14/09/2021 4:27 pm
jonwarby
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In

Posted by: @pye625

Marks or stains inside the glass can be quite normal and do not mean the valve is worn out,

It was more the smoke marks on the metal that I was concerned about.  If you look at the picture it looks like smoke has come out of the bottom of the valve or something underneath the valve and marked everything that was above it based on how it was orientated in the unit.  

 
Posted : 14/09/2021 7:36 pm
Cathovisor
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Posted by: @jonwarby

It was more the smoke marks on the metal that I was concerned about.  If you look at the picture it looks like smoke has come out of the bottom of the valve or something underneath the valve and marked everything that was above it based on how it was orientated in the unit.  

That'll be fine dust that's been deposited by convection currents that the hot valve has created. 

 
Posted : 14/09/2021 7:43 pm
jonwarby
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Posted by: @cathovisor

That'll be fine dust that's been deposited by convection currents that the hot valve has created.

ahh that's good.  I thought it was strange that it was just around a single valve.  I'll keep the one I took out as a spare then.

 

 
Posted : 14/09/2021 10:40 pm
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