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Murphy Line Output Transformer Replacement
1977/78 22″ ITT CD662; CVC30-Series
1982 20″ ITT 80-90 Model (unknown)
Retro Tech 2025
Fabulous Finlandia; 1982 Granada C22XZ5
Tales of woe after the storms. (2007)
Live Aerial Mast
Total collapse
What Not To Do
1983 Philips 26CS3890/05R Teletext & Printer
MRG Systems ATP600 Databridge
Teletext Editing Terminal
Microvitec Monitor 1451MS4
BBC Microcomputer TELETEXT Project
Viewdata, Prestel, Philips
Philips Model Identification
1976/77 Rank Arena AC6333 – Worlds First Teletext Receiver
PYE 1980s Brochure
Ceefax (Teletext) Turns 50
Philips 1980s KT3 – K30 Range Brochure
Zanussi Television Brochure 1982
Ferguson Videostar Review
She soon put that down
1983 Sanyo Brochure
Wireless World Teletext Decoder
Unitra Brochure
Rediffusion CITAC (MK4A)
Thorn TRUMPS 2
Grundig Brochure 1984
The Obscure and missing Continental
G11 Television 1978 – 1980
Reditune
Hitachi VIP201P C.E.D Player
Thorn 3D01 – VHD VideoDisc Player
Granada Television Brochure, 1970s
Long Gone UK TV Shops
Memories of a Derwent Field Service Engineer
PYE Australia Circa 1971
Radios-TV VRAT
Fabulous Fablon
Thorn TX10 Chassis
Crusty-TV Museum, Analogue TV Network
Philips N1500 Warning!
Rumbelows
Thorn EMI Advertising
Thorn’s Guide to Servicing a VCR
Ferguson 3V24 De-Robed
Want to tell us a story?
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Ferguson 3V24
Hi All,
Need help with obtaining a cable connector for my Ferguson 3V24 re-build I need a 4 pin female connector, shell on this one is broken. These are shorter in length than than those used on the 3V22's they may be used in the later 3V29/30's but don't know. If anyone can help me to obtain one it would be most welcome.
Years ago when these where in use there used to be a 10uF electrolytic that would leak on the control panel causing the battery alarm to go off. This one the servo circuit is giving trouble with intermittent soldered joints. You don't see them until you attempt to solder them and the PCB copper track is left as copper with no surface wetting at all. Last time I saw this was on a Sony KV1810UB's with the Mark 1 timebase panels which would take a couple of hours to work through.
This unit also has intermittent sound due to again leaking electrolyte on the PCB from some of the electrolytic capacitors. I hope someone has a scrap unit that can donate the needed connector from. Photo shows what, original was yellow, don't mind the colour. Please see photos
Hope someone can help
Hurty
There are similar plugs and sockets on eBay, size could be incorrect, worth a look if you have not checked there.
This looks like the same type of connector as the one for power on 3.5" floppy drives... also used sometimes for the multimedia connections on PCs.
I think these are called MOLEX plugs, be aware though that there are several different sizes.
I used to use this type of PCB plug at one place I worked, you had to buy the plastic plug shell, the metal inserts (crimps) and the crimping tool all separate, oh and of course your wire and PCB headers, while the plugs, crimp inserts and the pcb headers were all reasonably priced the crimping tool ranged from expensive-ish for a one-off job (the cheapest one) to very, very expensive for professional assembly line grade ones.
RS sell all of the Molex type bits and pieces needed, Rapid do a much cheaper equivalent range (or did), just be aware that the two types mentioned here are not wholly 100% compatible with each other, in that the Rapid supplied crimping tool doesn't crimp the genuine (RS) Molex crimp inserts properly, also the Rapid insert crimps are slightly thinner, softer, and a slightly different crimp pattern, hence the incompatibility, the finished plugs and pcb headers seem to fit each other though. In any event it is far better not to mix the two types.
Just a thought here, it is possible to replace the plug head, if you push the retaining tab with a pin or similar,while pulling on the wire.
It is easier to do than to explain, the retaining tab is accessible through one side of the plug and is best described as a 'barb', it is a little metal tab that is part of the crimp which is bent in such orientation that it is easy to insert but blocks the crimp from pulling out of the plug, hence needing a pin to push it in while extracting.
Have a play with a scrap lead if you have one to see what I mean, it is quite simple to do but hard to put into words.
ran out of editing time 🙂
sometimes you may have to bend the little barb/tab back out a touch as it doesn't always retain again properly when replacing the plastic plug header, usually this due to being bent in a little to far when extracting with a pin.
You can usually extract and replace a few times just so long as the little tab doesn't snap off.
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