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Ferguson 3V24  

 
Hurty
(@hurty)
Busy V-Ratter Registered

Hi All,

       Need help with obtaining a cable connector for my Ferguson 3V24 re-build I need a 4 pin female connector, shell on this one is broken. These are shorter in length than than those used on the 3V22's they may be used in the later 3V29/30's but don't know. If anyone can help me to obtain one it would be most welcome.

Years ago when these where in use there used to be a 10uF electrolytic that would leak on the control panel causing the battery alarm to go off. This one the servo circuit is giving trouble with intermittent soldered joints. You don't see them until you attempt to solder them and the PCB copper track is left as copper with no surface wetting at all. Last time I saw this was on a Sony KV1810UB's with the Mark 1 timebase panels which would take a couple of hours to work through.

This unit also has intermittent sound due to again leaking electrolyte on the PCB from some of the electrolytic capacitors. I hope someone has a scrap unit that can donate the needed connector from. Photo shows what, original was yellow, don't mind the colour. Please see photos

3VV242
3V241

Hope someone can help

Hurty

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Topic starter Posted : 15/06/2020 3:08 pm
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Nuvistor
(@nuvistor)
Famed V-Ratter Registered

There are similar plugs and sockets on eBay, size could be incorrect, worth a look if you have not checked there.

Frank

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Posted : 15/06/2020 4:39 pm
EmleyMoor
(@emleymoor)
Trusted V-Ratter Registered

This looks like the same type of connector as the one for power on 3.5" floppy drives... also used sometimes for the multimedia connections on PCs.

"Yes, a bit of wet string may get you a good TV signal here on four channels, but you'll have to dry it out to get Channel 5!"

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Posted : 15/06/2020 5:12 pm
Red_to_Black
(@red_to_black)
Noble V-Ratter Registered

I think these are called MOLEX plugs, be aware though that there are several different sizes.

I used to use this type of PCB plug at one place I worked, you had to buy the plastic plug shell, the metal inserts (crimps) and the crimping tool all separate, oh and of course your wire and PCB headers, while the plugs, crimp inserts and the pcb headers were all reasonably priced the crimping tool ranged from expensive-ish for a one-off job (the cheapest one) to very, very expensive for professional assembly line grade ones.

RS sell all of the Molex type bits and pieces needed, Rapid do a much cheaper equivalent range (or did), just be aware that the two types mentioned here are not wholly 100% compatible with each other, in that the Rapid supplied crimping tool doesn't crimp the genuine (RS) Molex crimp inserts properly, also the Rapid insert crimps are slightly thinner, softer, and a slightly different crimp pattern, hence the incompatibility, the finished plugs and pcb headers seem to fit each other though. In any event it is far better not to mix the two types.

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Posted : 16/06/2020 11:02 am
Red_to_Black
(@red_to_black)
Noble V-Ratter Registered

Just a thought here, it is possible to replace the plug head, if you push the retaining tab with a pin or similar,while pulling on the wire.

It is easier to do than to explain, the retaining tab is accessible through one side of the plug and is best described as a 'barb', it is a little metal tab that is part of the crimp which is bent in such orientation that it is easy to insert but blocks the crimp from pulling out of the plug, hence needing a pin to push it in while extracting.

Have a play with a scrap lead if you have one to see what I mean, it is quite simple to do but hard to put into words.

"This is my multimeter. There are many others like it, but this one is mine. My multimeter is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. Without me, my multimeter is useless. Without my multimeter, I am useless."

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Posted : 16/06/2020 11:13 am
Red_to_Black
(@red_to_black)
Noble V-Ratter Registered

ran out of editing time 🙂

sometimes you may have to bend the little barb/tab back out a touch as it doesn't always retain again properly when replacing the plastic plug header, usually this due to being bent in a little to far when extracting with a pin.

You can usually extract and replace a few times just so long as the little tab doesn't snap off.

"This is my multimeter. There are many others like it, but this one is mine. My multimeter is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. Without me, my multimeter is useless. Without my multimeter, I am useless."

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Posted : 16/06/2020 11:29 am